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Langkawi, Malaysia—Island of the Monkey, the Eagle, the Bat and Fish

© September 2005
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On our fourth day, we took out a long day trip on the Catamaran. We bathed in the sun on the deck and swam in the ocean. At noon we stopped at one of the small public islands for a picnic of local BBQ chicken and beef with peanut sauce, muscles, etc.  The French people, when they eat, wherever they are, preferred to have everything prepared as if at home or a fancy restaurant—the aperitifs, the wines, the beginners, the main plate, the desserts and then coffee to complete the meal. It was delicious, we really enjoyed it.

By the fifth day, we were very tired so we spent the next two days at the hotel, enjoying its big pool with a bar in the middle. The beach was only a few feet away, but it was so hot we didn’t go there. The pool staff didn’t smile much and I found this sad. I much preferred the hospitality in Vietnam and Thailand, where a huge smile was a sign of basic human respect.

On our seventh day, we took a Mangrove trip. Along the islands, we saw hundreds of fruit bats hanging up-side-down from tree branches. We stopped at Dangli Island to feed the fish. We went to the Story Cave to see local fishermen with their wooden small boat, rock formation, Limestone Cycas (a living fossil) birds. Next we proceeded to Kilim River (Mangrove River) to see the mangrove trees and learn how their roots preserve and protect the island by converting the sea water into fresh water to nourish the plants.

  We also fed the Eagles, which is the symbol of Langkawi Island. We visited the Fish Feeding Farm to see moray eels, horse shoe crabs, mantis prawns, sting rays, trevallys, sea bass and other ornamental fish. We then stopped and climbed up to the Bats Cave. There were thousand of bats along the stalactite and stalagmite. (Visiting the cave was interesting to Kenny because he just saw the movie “Batman Begins” two weeks before). Our guide showed us some trees with poisonous leaves that grow along the way to the cave.

Next we stopped for lunch at the Barn Thai Restaurant, one of the best on the island—we were told.  After lunch, we proceeded to the Crocodile Cave where we saw thousands more bats as we passed through in a boat during low tide.

On our last three days, we shared a rental car with a young French couple and drove around the island. We visited many art and local shops to buy gifts and souvenirs for our families and friends. We noticed there were many tourist places that have been abandoned or no longer frequented, as well as a few state and public beaches that were not well-kept or properly cleaned. Restaurants and shops along the highways were empty and we saw no people in the parks, no children at the playgrounds.

Only when we stopped at a local night market did we find many local people buying cooked food and fresh fruits. We bought some grilled chicken with rice for our dinner which cost only €1.00. We ate some delicious fried noodles, a specialty dish of the locals.

As we ate, I recalled how our private tour guide in Kuala Lumpur had told us the legend of Langkawi Island. According to the legend, the people could not prosper for many years because of a pregnant woman. They had accused her of infidelity and killed her. But it turned out that she was innocent, and in revenge, her soul had cursed the island forever. Although I found the story funny, my serious opinion is that, given what I saw and experienced, it is the attitudes of the local people towards tourists that are truly preventing their growth and prosperity.

Ironically, it was while looking out the window as we were flying out, that I noticed the shape of one of the smaller islands. It resembled a pregnant woman lying on her back. And that’s how I’ll remember it, as the land of peculiar monkeys and legends.

All rights reserved © September 2005

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