Living in Paris: on a budget...
(part 2 of 5) © by Quarkscrew Jones
BOOKS AND MUSIC - USED
Shakespeare and Co., Shakespeare and Co., yeah,
yeah, all right already, I get it! Hemmingway
farted there once, I hear and they've been coasting
on that ever since. Well, good for them but for my
money, a "real" used book or CD shouldn't cost a
small child and that's why I prefer Boulinier Books
just a few blocks away on bd Saint Michel. Unlike
"HistoryLand and Co.", this place actually has
books you want to read, all at rock bottom
prices.
They also have CDs and cassettes from all over
the world that are even cheaper. With the look and
feel of a Berkeley "Penny Lane" you are guaranteed
to spend hours sifting through absolute muck for
that one precious jewel (possibly written by
Hemmingway who once lived up the street), but isn't
that precisely the point? Also, don't forget this
place when you're ready to move back to your native
land, as they'll buy any books and CD's in any
language that you can't take with.
 Boulinier Books
and Music
18, bd Saint Michel, 75006 Paris,
Métro: Cluny-la Sorbonne
CHEESE, PLEASE
It's seem odd to
mention a fromagerie when this is Paris, and they
are everywhere, but how many have a cute, French
grandma in bobby socks with a puppy behind the
counter? How many are a stone's throw from Jim
Morrison, Edith Piaf and Oscar Wilde and how many
will dare to sell you snack cheeses that are
actually blue purple with mold for under one Euro?
In a world of fast paced everything, this place is
a charming, quaint bright spot, and since it's
located directly across from the Pere Lachaise
cemetery, stop in on your way to visit Jim and
Oscar and the gang.
 Fromagerie de
Père Lâchais
5, rue des Amandiers, 75020 Paris
(left of the video store/across the street,
Metro: Pere Lachaise (Line 2)
CLOTHING
Tati, Tati, Tati, you hear it everywhere, but
where is it? What is it? Well, if you are from
Europe, think a low rent "Mark and Spencer's". If
you're from America, think "Ross". Nuf' said. While
there are several Tati's in town (the pink and
white checkered awnings give it away), the main
one, with all the pushing, shoving, spitting and
incredible bargains is located, and you guessed it,
in THAT part of town. Just accept it, and run.
Tati
Goutte d'Or/Château Rouge;
bd Barbes meets bd Magenta meets bd La Chapelle,
75018 Paris;
Métro: Barbes-Rocherchauart (Line4)
 COMPUTER STORE
I'm told you can get major US brand named
computer products here for reasonable prices. They
have everything you need and an English-speaking
staff. Just remember, whatever you purchase will
have a European outlet plug, not an American one.
It's some thing to think hard about, especially
those with big-ticket items.
Surcouf
139, ave Daumesnil, 75012 Paris
Tel :01-53-33-20-00,
Metro: Daumesnil (line 6), Bus 29
FANCY FRENCH FOOD FOR FREE!
Okay, so I lied, the only thing you can get for
free in Paris is attitude, but the closest
as you'll get to a free gourmet meal is a little
known chain of three restaurants serving excellent
menus for 15 Euros a head. All menus come with
appetizer, entrée, dessert, wine and soft
drinks. (Coffee is extra, believe it or not.)
Le Trois (15 euros)
3, rue Ste.
Croix de la Bretonnerie,
75003 Paris - Near Hotel de Ville
Tel: 01-42-74-71-52,
Metro: Hotel de Ville (Lines 1 and 11)
**This one is quaint and clean, not far from BHV.
The staff is efficient, if a bit….hurried,
but the food is delicious. Alas, portions are
typically French, but for 15 Euros, at least you
can impress all your visiting friends and still
afford a Carte Orange at the end of the
month.
Le Dos de la Baleine (13-15
euros)
40, rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Paris,
Metro: Rambuteau (Line 11)
**This one is the most popular of the chain and
I'm not sure if it's because of the black-clad,
handsome, smiling all-male wait staff - or the
fact that the portions are the largest and yet
it's the cheapest deal (around 15 Euros). Only
headache is the lunchtime crowds, which are huge
(for reasons stated above), so I suggest you
reserve before you go.
A 2 Pas du Dos (13-15 euros)
101,
rue Vielle du Temple, 75003 Paris
INDIAN FOOD ON A BUDGET
Need some henna for that left-hand tattoo?
Running low on Nag Champa incense? Looking for some
Tandoori chicken for under $6? Then get thee to Passage Brady, a little promenade area in
the 10th where you can find everything
"India" at basement prices. Not to be mistaken for
the larger, TRUE Paris Indian neighborhood that
stretches through the 18th
arrondissement, Passage Brady is all about
tourist and it remains Paris' second best kept
secret. (The first is the cluster of live
prostitutes selling their wears in doorways along
rue St. Denis - but that's another article
entirely).
Located on either side of rue de Strasbourg, it
is within walking distance of both the Gare de Nord
and the Gare de L'est, so if you have any time
between trains, this is the place to eat, as menus
start at $5 - $6 for entrée, dessert and
drink.
Passage Brady
bd du Strasbourg (alleyways halfway
down block on both sides of blvd) 75010,
Métro: Château d'Eau (Line 4)
go to part 3...
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