From Paris to Amsterdam

From Paris to Amsterdam: Drugs, Sex and the Led Zeppelin

Years ago, friends visiting us in Paris took a three-day detour to Amsterdam and stayed in a hotel near what they called "The Led Zeppelin." It didn't take long to understand they were mispronouncing "Leidseplein" -- an area on the south side of central Amsterdam where theaters abound...a sort of 42nd Street and home of the English-language comedy group, Boom Chicago. The unintentional pun has stuck with me ever since...Amsterdam and "The Led Zeppelin" might as well be synonymous.

There is no denying that one of the big advantages to living in Europe is the accessibility to other cities, countries, languages, cultures, cuisines, arts and artifacts, terrain and architecture...such as Amsterdam. It is true that the train system from France is seamless travel to the U.K., Germany, Italy, Spain, Belgium and Holland, but, the airfares made the flight from Charles de Gaulle to Schiphol too tempting to pass up a weekend in Amsterdam, my SECOND favorite city in Europe.

Where the French complicate, the Dutch simplify. Holland is the land of the no frills practical aspect of good design. If you enjoy symmetry, balance and classic geometric shapes, then you will find comfort in the row houses lining the canals and narrow streets. The vertical architectural of old Amsterdam made up of virtually 100% red brick (houses, sidewalks, streets, bridges, steps, etc.) is the perfect balance to the horizontal landscape of the still canals that reflect back their elegant stature.

We stayed in a bed and breakfast not far from the central train station outside of the "centrum" near the Singel Canal run by a gay couple with kitsch jungle motif. My cheetah print PJ's oddly matched the leopard print sheets and the fake garden outside the window fooled us into thinking we weren't in the basement -- the part of an Amsterdam house that is traditionally the kitchen and maids' quarters.

During a 1-hour and 15-minute canal boat tour, you can have a view of the city you can't have from any other point, like seeing Paris from the Bateaux Mouches on the river Seine. As we glided along the water we gazed into the large floor-to-ceiling windows that, for the most part, do not have draperies to contain what is going on inside. Inside the stories repeat themselves: bookshelves filled; contemporary lighting; distressed Dutch country rugged wood furniture in colors of white, cream, blue, green and taupe; original paintings; potted plants; narrow staircases. The lights are bright. Every detail can be observed yet no one seems the least bit concerned. It tells me these people don't have much to hide or be embarrassed by.

My traveling companion of Dutch descent and her Amsterdam friend took charge of renting bikes for a sightseeing day of the city on two wheels -- THE mode of transportation (10 Euros/day). There are almost as many bikes in Amsterdam as there are people. In fact, the 750,000 residents own approximately 600,000 bicycles and a three-level parking garage next to the central station houses many thousands of them. If Mayor Bertrand Delanoë would have his way, Paris would follow suit and be a biking city. Amsterdam benefits from reduced pollution, noise and fatal accidents.

I hadn't been on a bike since I was 11 years old and had never used hand brakes, nor was I familiar with Amsterdam biking rules or etiquette. To say I was apprehensive is an understatement. Our Dutch friend took pity and walked us to a private street for instruction before setting out to pedal the town. Good thing...we both needed few U-turns, and as you see, I have lived to tell the tale, but one day up and over the bridges was plenty for these old bones.

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